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Volunteer Teacher

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My body is dripping with sweat. I can't stand it anymore so I untuck the mosquito net from the bottom of my mattress, switch on my torch and make my way to the kitchen where I pour myself a glass of water. Yuck! It's tepid; there is no fridge to cool it down......well actually there is a fridge, but it is a kerosene fridge and I haven't worked out how to use it yet. There is no electricity in Nkroful, the small town in Ghana, West Africa where I am spending two years as a volunteer Biology Teacher.

I take a few sips of the water, wipe myself down with a wet flannel and go back to bed. I manage to sleep for a while until I am awakened by the deafening crowing of a cockerel (it must be right outside my window); another one answers it. There is no sign of dawn breaking so I don't know what they are playing at. Next, I hear shouts and the sound of running feet - it appears to be a group of students out for a training run. I doze off until a faint grey light starts to permeate my bedroom. I hear people shouting greetings to one another - why do they have to be so loud?

I am sleeping soundly when there is a knock at the door. It's Kwame with a large bowl of water balanced on his head. Time to get up. At least I don't have to go to the well myself, but I still find it tedious having to boil and filter the water. As a parasitologist, I cannot ignore the importance of this task, knowing that, in addition to various bacterial and viral infections, untreated water can harbour water fleas which carry the larvae of the guinea worm. When the adult worms develop they cause agonising blisters in the lower leg.

Breakfast consists of sweetened black coffee (you can only buy condensed milk here and I hate it), hard-boiled eggs and toast cooked in a frying pan - it sounds crazy, but it was a tip I picked up on one of my training courses and it works! I bought the eggs at a local market. They come from the hens that are found running around the village; I don't like to think about what they might eat, but the small eggs which they lay are incredibly tasty.

After breakfast I head off up to school. It is a nice 15 minute walk in the cool morning before the sun is strong enough to sap my energy. As I leave my house my neighbour greets me with "Good morning!" Other people greet me in the local language which I haven't learned yet, but I smile and wave. Scrawny chickens run around freely and piebald goats gambol gleefully around. A small boy looks after a flock of sheep and an old man keeps an eye on a herd of bony cows. Weaver birds flit through the trees overhead, putting finishing touches to their intricate nests. Hornbills fly from tree to tree in the distance.

I reach the bottom of the hill on which the secondary school is situated and pass the women selling breakfast to the children from the adjacent primary school; they can buy a bit of bread and a cup of porridge for 200 cedis (10p in British money, but quite a lot of money for the children). Then I arrive at the school and make my way to the staff room to greet the other teachers before heading off to the Biology Lab.

I have spent the last three days poring over the syllabus preparing for my first day of lessons and I am looking forward to it. I busy myself cleaning the dusty blackboard with an old rag and putting out the worksheets I have prepared for the students. I look at my watch - the students are ten minutes late already. Eventually someone arrives.

"Where are the others?" I ask him.

"Sir, they are still in assembly" he replies.

The tardiness of students is something I will have to get used to. They arrive in dribs and drabs. Eventually, we are ready to start the lesson and the students listen quietly.

At the end of the day I am proud of the way the lessons have gone and I sit down for a five-minute rest before returning home. There is a knock at the door and the Head of Science appears:

"The students have been complaining.... they cannot understand what you are saying."

 I guess I have a lot to learn!